Wide Entryway Console

This guide builds the full-depth plywood version. Choose straight, dry boards and flat cabinet-grade plywood.

Sheet and board equivalents

A 4 × 8 ft sheet is 48 × 96 in (1219.2 × 2438.4 mm). Every listed board is 96 in (2438.4 mm) long. Nominal 3/4 in and 1/4 in thicknesses convert to 19.1 mm and 6.4 mm; measure the actual sheets.

Allow for the finished footprint

The illustrated depth is 17 1/4 in (438.2 mm). The applied back and projecting hardware need extra clearance. Measure the built cabinet before choosing its final position, especially near doors, outlets or baseboards.

Match the hinges to inset face-frame doors and check their required clearances before finalizing the door fit.

Also have ready

Wood filler, abrasives and an interior paint or clear finish compatible with the wood. Choose a furniture anti-tip restraint and wall fixings appropriate to the cabinet and wall construction.

Do not guess the hardware

Hinge screws, catch screws, pull bolts, nail gauge and total fastener counts are not specified. Use hardware-maker requirements and verify that every fastener is short enough not to emerge through a visible face.

Read the full guide before cutting. Cabinet assembly is manageable in stages; accurate door fitting needs patience.

Cut and measure

Gather a tape measure, pencil, square, straightedge saw guide and circular saw or table saw. A miter saw is useful for the solid-wood crosscuts. Support the full sheet and offcuts so nothing drops or pinches the blade.

Join and finish

Have a drill/driver, pocket-hole jig with its matched bit and stop collar, brad nailer, clamps, level and sander. Add pilot bits and the drivers required by your hardware. Use a flat, stable assembly surface.

Protect yourself

Wear eye and hearing protection; use dust extraction and suitable dust protection. Clamp work before cutting or drilling. Keep hands away from cutting and nailing paths. Disconnect tool power before blade, bit or nailer adjustments.

Test the pocket joints

Set the jig for the measured plywood or board thickness, nominally 3/4 in (19.1 mm). Set its stop collar as directed by the jig maker. This is a material-thickness setting, not the depth of a straight hole. Test screws on offcuts first.

Handle the cabinet safely

Use a helper to lift, turn or move the supported cabinet. Never hold a joint in a nail’s path; brads can deflect through thin edges.

Dimensions are finished sizes. All cuts are square. Label each piece and keep its best face toward the visible side.

Use the correct thickness

A, B, C and D use nominal 3/4 in (19.1 mm) plywood. L uses nominal 1/4 in (6.4 mm) plywood. Four additional thin door-back panels O are listed with the door parts on page 7.

Fit the back after assembly

The back is not listed as a fixed early cut. Square the assembled cabinet, measure its rear, then cut L to fit. Its illustrated size is a starting check, not permission to ignore the actual cabinet.

Use nominal 1×2 for E through I. Use nominal 1×4 for J and K. All lengths below have square ends.

Two side base pieces

Cut one J for each end of the cabinet. Fit both to the assembled sides before measuring K across their front edges. The front base length is cut to fit; 58 in (1473.2 mm) is the intended finished width.

Read the frame names

Stiles stand vertically and rails run horizontally. E is different: it lies flat to extend the top forward. G forms the long upper and lower rails; I fronts the two cubby shelves.

Make one trial frame and verify its fit with the chosen hinges before repeating all four doors.

Each frame uses two M and two N

Place the rails between the stiles. With actual 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm) wide boards, each frame is 12 7/8 × 20 3/4 in (327.0 × 527.1 mm). Its clear center opening is 7 7/8 × 15 3/4 in (200.0 × 400.1 mm).

The panel note is not a final cut size

The approximate panel size above is not a final cut: it provides no end overlap. Measure each frame, then cut O larger than the opening in BOTH directions while keeping it inside the outer frame edges.

Keep room for the hardware

Leave enough frame overlap for glue and safe brad placement. Keep the panel clear of hinge and catch fittings. No fixed panel overlap is specified; confirm it with the real frame and hardware.

Measure the actual stock; lumber names are not finished sizes.

Use one unit system

Inches govern these cuts; millimeter equivalents are rounded to 0.1 mm. Do not mix rounded metric values with fractional inches within a run of parts. A 0.1 mm conversion is not a promise of that machining tolerance.

Plywood is not always its named thickness

Measure the sheet edges before cutting matching joinery. If your material differs, dry-fit the carcass and face frame before committing all lengths. Do not substitute narrower boards without redesigning the depth and back.

Check the intended envelope

The top is 58 in (1473.2 mm) wide and the cabinet is 36 in (914.4 mm) tall. The 55 in (1397.0 mm) shelves plus two 3/4 in (19.1 mm) sides form a 56 1/2 in (1435.1 mm) wide carcass.

Illustrations are not scale templates. The pictured tray is not part of the build.

These allocations fit the listed stock before saw kerf and end trimming. Check actual board length and defects first.

Rip the main sheet first

Cut three strips 15 3/4 in (400.1 mm) wide along the 96 in (2438.4 mm) length. Three strips consume 47 1/4 in (1200.2 mm) of the sheet width before kerfs. Then crosscut A through D from the strips.

Save the thin-sheet offcut

Lay out back L with 56 1/2 in (1435.1 mm) along the sheet length. Reserve the rest for four door backs. Check the full layout before cutting.

A × 1 / B × 2 / C × 2 / D × 1

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Mark the shelf positions

On both C sides, mark the lower shelf underside 3 1/2 in (88.9 mm) above the bottom. Position the upper shelf to leave 8 1/2 in (215.9 mm) clear below the top. Keep front and rear edges aligned.

Join the main box

Drill three pockets per carcass joint, using the 3/4 in (19.1 mm) material setting. Clamp square and fasten with 1 1/4 in (31.8 mm) pocket screws. Center A over the sides, leaving 3/4 in (19.1 mm) at each end.

Add the short divider

Glue both ends of D and place it midway across the upper opening. Secure with 1 1/4 in (31.8 mm) brads. Check diagonals and shelf level. There is no full-depth divider in the lower compartment.

E × 1 / F × 2 / G × 2 / H × 1 / I × 2

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Lay out the frame

Fit G between the outer F stiles, then H between the long rails. Fit one I on each side of H. Align the shelf-rail top edges with the plywood shelf tops. Keep the upper long rail directly below the top.

Orient the top cap

E lies flat, flush with the plywood top surface, extending its front edge. Center it left to right. It projects 3/4 in (19.1 mm) beyond the face frame at the front and beyond the sides.

Fasten and attach

Assemble square with the 3/4 in (19.1 mm) jig setting and 1 1/4 in (31.8 mm) pocket screws. Dry-fit, then glue and nail the frame to the carcass with 1 1/4 in (31.8 mm) brads. Aim into sound plywood edges.

J × 2 / K × 1 / Cut each piece to the assembled cabinet

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Fit both side pieces

Measure each cabinet end before trimming J. The intended side length is 16 1/2 in (419.1 mm), spanning the carcass and face-frame thickness. Fit one piece at each end with its lower edge flush to the cabinet bottom.

Nail the sides and front

Fasten J with 1 1/4 in (31.8 mm) brads. Measure K across the front of the fitted side trim; aim for 58 in (1473.2 mm). Cut square and nail it in place with the same brad length.

Check the corners

Keep the lower edges aligned and close the front-to-side joints without forcing the cabinet out of square. Keep nail paths inside the supporting wood. The trim conceals the raised lower shelf; it is not a separate floor panel.

L × 1 / 1/4 in plywood / Glue and 3/4 in brads

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Measure the finished rear

With a helper, support the cabinet so its back is accessible. Compare the two diagonals of the rear opening and adjust until equal. Measure for L; the illustrated rear is 56 1/2 × 36 in (1435.1 × 914.4 mm).

Cut and attach the panel

Cut L from 1/4 in (6.4 mm) plywood and dry-fit. Keep its edges aligned with the cabinet rear. Apply wood glue and secure along all rear edges with 3/4 in (19.1 mm) brads.

Keep it square while fastening

Mark the supporting wood so every brad enters it. Keep checking diagonals while fastening, then let the glue cure. The thin back alone is not an adequate attachment point for an anti-tip restraint.

M × 8 / N × 8 / O × 4 / Hardware for four doors

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Assemble the frames

For each door, fit two N rails between two M stiles. Use the 3/4 in (19.1 mm) jig setting and 1 1/4 in (31.8 mm) pocket screws. Clamp the faces flush and compare diagonals before tightening.

Add the back panels

Measure each clear opening. Cut O larger in both directions, with enough overlap for glue and brads while clearing all hardware. Glue and fasten from behind with 3/4 in (19.1 mm) brads. Keep every nail within the frame.

Install the hardware

Dry-fit the four doors in pairs, then install their hinge sets following the maker’s template. Add one pull and one magnetic catch per door. Use the fitting checks on the next page before drilling permanent hardware holes.

Door frames are inset into the face-frame openings. Fit the actual doors and hardware, not just the nominal cut sizes.

Confirm each lower opening

At the intended geometry, each paired-door opening is 26 in (660.4 mm) wide. Two 12 7/8 in (327.0 mm) doors use 25 3/4 in (654.1 mm), leaving 1/4 in (6.4 mm) total width clearance to share between the center and outer gaps.

Check the height and swing

Measure the actual opening height and use temporary spacers to keep reveals even. Confirm the chosen hinges can work with the available gaps. If they cannot, adjust the door fit before finishing; do not force the doors or reduce the frame opening by guesswork.

Mark hardware carefully

Support each door while marking hinges. Follow the maker’s pilot-hole and depth instructions. Test one door first. Use a template to align all four pulls and check bolt length against the door thickness.

Adjust the catches last

With doors hung and moving freely, position each magnetic catch so its door closes flush without bowing. Test both doors of each pair. Check that backs, screws and catches do not rub the shelf or neighboring door.

Keep the interior simple

Only the two listed plywood shelves are included. Any added lower shelf needs clearance from the door backs and hardware throughout the door swing.

Remove the doors and hardware if needed for an even finish. Label each door and its matching position so it returns to the same opening.

Check before sanding

Look for loose joints, sharp edges, exposed nail points and damaged plywood. Correct problems now. Fill visible holes with a filler compatible with your finish, let it dry and sand smooth without cutting through the plywood face veneer.

Prepare clean surfaces

Sand with the grain and ease sharp edges lightly. Remove glue squeeze-out thoroughly because it can block stain. Vacuum the dust, then wipe as the coating maker recommends. Let the wood dry before coating.

Choose an indoor finish

For paint, use a compatible primer and a durable furniture or trim paint. For a natural look, test stain and clear finish on matching offcuts first. Follow the product directions for ventilation, coats, drying and full cure.

Preserve the door clearances

Avoid thick finish buildup along door edges and inside the openings. Rehang the cured doors in their marked positions, adjust the hinges and catches, and check that the faces stay flush throughout the swing.

Treat finish waste safely

Keep the work area ventilated and away from flames and sparks. Dispose of oily rags, dust and coating waste as directed by the product maker. Do not leave oil-soaked rags in a pile.

Anchor the finished console before loading it. Door operation and objects on top can change its stability.

Choose the right restraint

Use a furniture anti-tip system suited to this cabinet and wall. Follow its instructions: attach to substantial cabinet structure and studs or approved wall anchors. Do not rely on the thin back or drywall alone.

Check the installation location

Level the cabinet on a firm surface, allowing for baseboards and the applied back. Check for wiring and pipes before wall drilling. If the wall or fixing method is uncertain, use a competent installer.

Inspect the completed build

Check that the cabinet does not rack or rock, the back is secure and no fastener tips protrude. Test every door and tighten loose hardware without stripping the wood. Let glue and finish fully cure before loading.

Use as storage furniture

No tested load rating is provided. Keep heavy items low and distribute them evenly; do not overload. This is not a seat, step, climbing frame or changing table. Keep children from climbing or hanging on doors.

Recheck over time

Inspect the restraint, joints, shelves and door hardware regularly, and after moving the cabinet. Stop using it if parts loosen, split, sag or rock. Empty it and use a helper when moving; reinstall the restraint at the new location.